Tuesday, June 28, 2005

Dafu and Emei Shan

After Anne's departure Rachel and I were on our own, armed with two phrasebooks and some jottings in note books. On our first night alone we successfuly ordered some dinner and then got lost, and managed to get a taxi back to the hotel.

The following morning we were going on a two day tour to the largest buddha in the world and a mountain with some temples on it (Dafu and Emei Shan). The tour was very Chinese in its organisation and we were the only non-chinese on it. Luckily we fell on our feet in usual style and the girl sitting next to me on the bus, Emily, had been studying in Melbourne for three years and could tell us the important information being given on the tour.

The first stop was for a gobbled lunch in a Chinese restaurant, I'm sure we had a slap up meal within five minutes then we were allowed to roam around the area with the Buddha in it on our own. It was absolutely sweltering but still very interesting and impressive. On the way back to the bus there were lots of stalls where they would peel a whole cucumber for you, except for a handle on the stem, as a refreshing snack - surprisingly good.

We thought that was it for the day until we stopped somewhere and Emily said we could get a free foot massage. We were all marched into a large room with white walls and benches all round the outside. Then an army of assistants walked in with washing up bowls lined with plastic bags and full of scolding hot brown water (full of nutritious herbs apparently). Then after a twenty minute talk in Chinese about the various benefits of herbs, in walked twenty masseuses (one each) who massaged our feet for forty minutes (this definitely wasn't mentioned by the travel agent!) This was all good fun as communication was through Emily and it was such a bizarre experience. The hard sell of products continued, but the lack of a common language helped us escape for free.

We hadn't been on the bus ten minutes when we stopped again as Emily explained, for some free tea. Then we got herded into this building which had this lecture theatre / cinema room where they first showed us a film about the tea grown there, then it turned into a stage where there was first a Chinese tea ceremony (with hypnotic movments). Then a guy with an exceedingly long teapot appeared, who was the cross between a majorette and a tea-kung-fu expert, his extreme tea pouring act was surprisingly impressive. This was all washed down with some free tea, a quick tour of the tea museum and a look round the shop.

Finally we got to our hotel which was very upmarket and had another guzzled meal before being let loose. We explored the town which was really fun and bustling. The streets full of people wondering around, with little shops and markets everywhere. We managed some shopping with pretty comprehensive negotiations, which was a definite confidence boost.

Today we started at six and got a series of buses and cable cars up the mountain. The whole thing was packed with people, which took away from the mysticism and tranquility of a mountain dotted with monasteries and temples. It was a fun day, but we had to stay with the tour group the whole time. There was some free time to go to 'the monkey zone' - this is where some alledgedly 'lovely monkies' (in truth scary creatures who will steal any food and even nick peoples bags!).

We are now back in Chengdu and tried a Chinese fast food joint for dinner, it was cheaper than some of the other places we've been going to, but not nearly so good, so I think we'll fork out the extra 50p in future! We had a little trouble ordering, but fortunately the waitress understood out troubles and wrote down her question in Chinese characters, which was obviously much easier to understand....

Tomorrow we're off to Xi'an we're flying so it should all be very easy!


Cheers,


Ali

Saturday, June 25, 2005

Back in Chengdu

Well we returned from the mountains safely, the roads still punctuated with impressive landslides. Anne leaves us tomorrow so we're having a chill out day before heading off to see some temples and the largest Buddha in the world! The we're off to Xi'an. We're flying again as it's twenty pounds and saves a 16.5 hour train ride.

There are many features of day to day Chinese life that seem odd. One of the notorious ones is spitting, on the bus, in the restaurant, in the street. It is normally preceded by a hefty hack.

Another thing apparently peculiar to szechuan is having your ears cleaned. guys roam the areas of the park where people drink tea, or have stalls down by the river armed with lots of pointy sticks with cotton buds on the end. for ten yuan they will give you a good clean out - photos will come some time soon! You can have a plethora (sp?) of other services performed by the river too, including having the calouses removed from your feet - not pleasent to watch as you walk by!

That's all for now,


Ali

Friday, June 24, 2005

More mountains....

The day after our last update we hired a driver for a couple of days. This guy was crazy, he argued and shouted lots then would be friendly again. I'm very glad we're no longer with him! During one of his nice moments he let me drive the car, which was rather exciting as the road was littered with rocks, pot holes, turned to mud, was crossed by a small river, and dotted around with cattle and the odd flock of goats.

We were driving on mountain roads towards Tibet and then back to Kanding again. They were very high one of them topping 4300m but I managed to get away with only mild mountain sickness through taking it easy and returning to lower levels at night. It will be downhill all the way from here as we're getting the bus back to Chengdu, where we'll hang out for a day or so.

The scenery has been absolutely amazing. I have got to see yaks. We were just over a hundred miles from Tibet which was fantastic, as there is a lot of influence and most of the people are Tibetan. In fact many didn't even speak Mandarin, but only a Tibetan language.

Well I've got to go now.

Cheers,


Ali

Wednesday, June 22, 2005

sorry for the randomness...

hey,

Another post in the space of five minutes. Sorry this is all so erratic, but I can't edit stuff as I don't know what any of the buttons in Chinese do. I also can't read my email as neither my uni email or gmail work! Therefore apologies for no replies to people!

There's incredible phone reception in these distant mountain towns. You'll see people outside shacks on delapadated furniture making calls on their brand new phones.

Everything here is very cheap. Last night's hotel cost about one pound eighty each for a pleasent tripler, en-suite with TV. Taxis are about 80p per ride in the citys, and out here a guy drove us for three hours across mountains for eight quid. A fantastic slap up meal in a small eatery comes out at about 80p.

There's so much new and exciting here it's hard to know what to write about. In short it is beautiful, diverse and constantly exciting. There is much laughter hundreds of funny things happen every day.

It is possible to be very flexible with travel plans here. We were going to spend the night in the last village and had a hotel room for the second night, then this taxi guy talks to anne and we change our plans, cancel the room and got a taxi here. Getting a hotel on arrival!

The glacier incidentally was pretty spectacular, we were able to walk on it and take many photos. I was hoping to upload a few from my camera, but bering in mind the trouble I'm having with my blog, and the fact this PC seems to have been used as an ashtray, I think I'll save it for a classier joint. However the good news is that all means this place must be cheap!

Tomorrow we hope to travel to another mountain town with a lake and maybe see some lamaseries (SP?!) We are quite near tibet and the people look much more tibetan, and there are prayer flags. Just coming over from the last valley all the vegetation completely changed, which I don't entirely understand. This side there were much more scrubby bushes with flowers on them.

I don't know when or where I will next be able to write from, but I'll endeavour to keep writing.



Ali

ok, so that seemed to work....

So some more impressions of China:

It's a wonderfully vibrant, diverse, and crazy place. There are many suprises like babies and young children wearing trousers with no crotch area so they can just get held out to pee and such on the streets (one way to save on nappies!)

The food is excellent, and veggie food for Rachel is easy to come by. In Chgengdu (a big town in the Szechuan area) we tried a hot pot, a notoriously spicy dish involving a cauldron of boiling spices and chillies, which you put food in to cook. It was so hot each of us nearly fainted twqice and the whole restaurant thought it hilarious how red we went.

I've got to go now, but will keep you all posted.

Ali :)

another post...?

hi,

I'm not sure if I just cancelled my last post or not - I don't know the chinese character for cancel! Also although I can publish, I can't view my blog... the great firewall of china strikes again.

Anyway, I was saying....

I'm currently sitting in a very random internet cafe down a bunch of back alleys, and it's all in chinese! Yesterday we caught a bus up to a mountain village called Hailaguo (or something like that) and today we went to a glacier near there. Then we got a taxi for two hours to this other town.Greetings all.

I'm currently sitting in a very random internet cafe down a bunch of back alleys, and it's all in chinese! Yesterday we caught a bus up to a mountain village called Hailaguo (or something like that) and today we went to a glacier near there. Then we got a taxi for two hours to this other town.Greetings all.


The taxi ride was the most stunning journey I have ever made, through the steepest valleys with torrential rivers. Absolutely stunning. It was littered with landslides, but we had a careful driver so it was OK.

Going to try to post this again.

Alihi,

I'm not sure if I just cancelled my last post or not - I don't know the chinese character for cancel! Also although I can publish, I can't view my blog... the great firewall of china strikes again.

Anyway, I was saying....

I'm currently sitting in a very random internet cafe down a bunch of back alleys, and it's all in chinese! Yesterday we caught a bus up to a mountain village called Hailaguo (or something like that) and today we went to a glacier near there. Then we got a taxi for two hours to this other town.Greetings all.

I'm currently sitting in a very random internet cafe down a bunch of back alleys, and it's all in chinese! Yesterday we caught a bus up to a mountain village called Hailaguo (or something like that) and today we went to a glacier near there. Then we got a taxi for two hours to this other town.Greetings all.


The taxi ride was the most stunning journey I have ever made, through the steepest valleys with torrential rivers. Absolutely stunning. It was littered with landslides, but we had a careful driver so it was OK.

Going to try to post this again.

Ali

Sunday, June 19, 2005

Some photos...

hi,

Anne has put a few photos on the web, follow the link above and click on Jinghong. Some are from before I got here, but there's still a few with me in.

Off to Chengdu in six hours, must get some sleep.


Ali

Arrival in China

My flight arrived earlier than expected and with a quick 'bu yao' (don't want) to ticket touts, I was able to order my bus ticket from the airport to Hangzhou. I'm not sure whether they understood my phrase, but they seemed to give me a ticket to the right place.

I got a taxi to Anne's apartment which is in a block of student accommodation. Rachel soon appeared after exploring the town and we decided to plan the next leg of the trip. The long and short of which is we are going to go straight to Chengdu, and instead of the 48 hour train ride, we are going to take a plane, it's a bit more but still only about forty quid. The great news is Anne is likely to join us on our travels - she speaks very good Mandarin and is excellent company, so is a great addition to the group! :)

As for impressions of China, it's pretty much what I expected. Crazy traffic, lots of people, overloaded bicycles (a couple of fridges is mandatory), everything in Chinese...! Last night we went for dinner and then to some bars which were awesome. The first had a live band with occasional singers from the audience, the latter was extraordinary with many non-Chinese people from all over the world. On the way home, the statutory kebab was replaced by big bowls of noodles. A definitely more wholesome option. I managed to make it to 4:30AM Chinese time without any naps, but I fear it's going to catch up with me.

Well today we are going to a tea house, for some massages, and I'm not sure what else. I'm not sure when / where my update will be from, but I thought I'd take advantage of Anne's internet connection.


Cheers,


Ali

Friday, June 17, 2005

Leaving for China...



Well I have repacked my rucksack for the fifth time, trying to drive out all unnecessary items, and I think I'm finally ready! Stress is beginning to give way to excitement, and I am looking forward to arriving and seeing what China is like.

I've just tried to make a little map of where we are planning to go. The route isn't set in stone, but it will be something like:

Shanghai > Hangzhou > Yi'chaing > Chongqing > Chengdu > Xi'an > Luoyang > Beijing > Huizhou > Hong Kong > Shanghai

Internet access is supposed to be quite good in China and I hope to keep adding notes whilst on my travels. Unfortunately, I know the Chinese government censor and block quite a lot of sites, including blogs, so we'll have to see how that works...


Ali